To the primal wonders no road can ever lead; they are not so won.
To know them you shall leave road and roof behind;
You shall go light and spare.
You shall win them yourself, in sweat, sun, laughter,
In dust and rain, with only a few companions.

- This is the American Earth, by Ansel Adams and Nancy Newhall

Sidenote: This picture you see is the result of riding through half an hour of torrent and wind to arrive at the very western end of the island, trekking through an entire sodden field of knee-high grass which fortunately did not harbour leeches, and feeling very miserable, not to mention uncomfortable. i could only hope this picture is worth half of it.